I am only 15 minutes by U3 subway from the main train station and less than that from the prime tourist destinations. It is about a 10 minute walk to the train station. The bus stop is about 2 minutes away. So far, very happy with my first time using Airbnb. This is the apartment:
Up around 8ish and showered and get ready for the day. Of course, given the time zone difference with Vancouver always good to check emails that have arrived while I was sleeping. Johannes and Janke not up yet so I need to be as quiet as possible. A beautiful blue sky sunny and very warm day. The forecasted high for today is 24 degrees, but it gets warmer than that. What to do in Hamburg? I have ideas from travel articles, friends, travel guides and other sources. Plus, my hosts have provided some literature. I have four full days to explore Hamburg. I leave the apartment around 9:45 am.
Walk to the U3 subway stop Hoheluftbrücke and off at Rathaus station. There is a huge bicycle trade show going on in the platz in front. In regards to cycling in this city, the cyclists mostly ride on the sidewalk in a demarcated lane that is usually coloured. I pay 5.80 Euro for an all-day pass so pretty good deal. This U3 line circles Hamburg and has stations in the heart of the tourist area along the river. Now it is daylight and so much to see from the train as it rides above ground at various points. This is a port city on a huge river and apparently has more canals than Venice! It is not built above the marsh/sea like Venice, but there are canals all over this city.
I went online the day before and googled 'free english walking tours of Hamburg" and up came Sandelman's tour of Hamburg. They meet at 11 am every day outside the Starbucks across from the Rathaus (town hall). Yup, there are Starbucks everywhere! I know I am in the right place as a girl is carrying a large red umbrella with the name of the outfit and before 11 am there is a huge number of fellow tourists. The tours are in english and spanish. There are so many english speaking tourists they call in another guide. Our guide is Ralph. About 50 years old and born/raised in Hamburg. Ralph is up front in that yes the tour is free, but if you like the tour, you can give Ralph some money. Everyone gives Ralph cash at the conclusion. I don't think anyone is naive to believe this would be "free." ;-)
Ralph is in the jacket. As you can see it is quite a racially diverse group with tourists from all over the world. Some from Russia, New Zealand, Saudi Arabia etc.
Rathaus is huge given this has been and still is a very wealthy trading city.
We start with a brief but good history of Hamburg. It was founded fairly late by European standards as it didn't exist until 800 AD. It became rich very quickly given its location on the River Elbe and the confluence of two smaller rivers it was perfectly situated for trade into the heart of Germany and Europe. Currently, its population is around 1.8 million people and growing. In fact, the largest land development in Europe is happening in Hamburg in the Hafen City area. The city has been destroyed on a couple of occasions. First, the great fire of 1842 and then the Allied bombing during 1943.
Hamburg became a very wealthy trading city May 7, 1189 when a Prince gave the city full rights for trading and deemed it a 'free city.' As well, it was the leader of the Hanseatic League thus making it even more wealthy. One of its trading products was beer which it made in Hamburg and exported it around Europe many centuries ago. Why Hamburg beer? Their beer could keep for a long time due to a secret ingredient called 'hops.' The other nations did not know about hops so this further enriched the city. OK, you are probably getting bored with the history... ;-)
This is a three hour tour that keeps moving around the city. The guide Ralph is very knowledgeable and passionate about his city. Lets get to the pictures of some of the sights that we saw during the three hours.
Chilehaus. It is supposed to look like the front of a ship.
St. Nikolai Church (neo-Gothic) - Protestant of course given most of northern Europe is Protestant and most of southern Europe is Catholic. The Thirty Year War was because of those differences and nothing was resolved. This church at its time was the tallest structure in the world.
Original trading/warehouse area of Hamburg.
Another original trading area and demonstrates one of the canals.
The brown building in the distance is home to many shipping companies. This river is connected to the Elbe. The tides are very important in Hamburg. The large container ships come in with the high tide, most be unloaded or loaded within 12 hours to come out with the next high tide.
While most of us believe Deutschland is very well organized and you hope devoid of financial scandals they do have their own with this Opera Haus that is not completed, yet hundreds of millions of dollars over-budget. It will be stunning when completed. Hmmm, when is that?
As I walk back with the guide to the Rathaus. He mentions that a particular restaurant has a good lunch deal for persons with a ticket. I stop and have lunch at Zūm Brandanfang. Sat outside of course and for some reason I didn't see any wasps and was not attacked by any other flying insects! I ate a delicious veal schnitzel and drank a dunkel (dark) beer. Plus, the usual fried potatoes in bacon fat. Pleasant way to get some food and drink after an arduous day on a walking tour. :-) Wow, I had great service. Efficient, empathetic and thoughtful.... am I in Deutschland?
My friend Thom had recommended taking the tour of a Soviet submarine that was located in the harbour. Not easy to find as it is located on a distant end of the main tourist area close to St. Pauli neighbourhood. It was a long walk, but good walk along the Elbe River. So many tourists and people around.
9 Euro cost, but they don't do english speaking tours of the sub. Some specifications: 90 metres long. About 9 metres wide. Maximum dive depth was 400 metres. Carried 24 torpedos with 6 torpedo tubes. Speed about 60 knots. About 84 crew. If you are claustrophobic, you wouldn't last one minute in one of these! They are very cramped inside. There is no real free space on the U Boat as you can see from the pictures.
Das boot.
Close the hatches! Dive dive!You use the steel bar to swing your body through the opening.
A chef/cook's nightmare!
Yup, very narrow beds and the room is big enough to stand in and that's it. Not sure what you do about the snorer above or below you?
Kitchen wash up duty?
There were so many machines, dials, wires, metal, chains etc.....
This area at the harbour of the Elbe River is completely packed with people. Many tour boats up and down the river. Many berths, boats coming and going. Floating restaurants and restaurants looking down on the river with great views. Lots of people having a good time people watching. Many casuals places along the boardwalk and about two U Bahn stations servicing the area.
Smaller party boat in the foreground.
I am curious about the famous red light district in Hamburg. After all, it is a port city and that attracts sailors. I managed to find it in the St. Pauli district. The poster says it all. Basically, males under 18 and all women are prohibited from entering. There are these posters and walls on both ends of this street that is near Davidstrasse and Erichstrasse in case you are interested! :-)
You might see some stools facing the window from the inside? Anyway, the women sit on the stools wearing provocative clothing (barely nothing).
This is the street. Sorry, but the sun was shining on one side of the street. Very clean and tidy. I did make the mistake of trying to take a picture of the only lady working, when a fellow approached her. She leaned out of the open window to shout German obscenities in my direction. I felt pretty guilty, but at least I didn't take a picture. All around this area on the backside are bars and girlie places to entice the men. One bar was full of young guys watching Bundesliga action as today was Saturday afternoon.
I walked down to the harbour again, but in an easterly direction. Many huge ships in the harbour. Cap San Diego was one of the ships and a German active warship. See pic below:
I spent some time wandering the docks and saw a number of sailing ships, 4-masters and boats going in and out of berths. Such a great day along the mighty Elbe river. I decide to get back on the U3 subway and explore some other close by areas. I get off at the Mönckebergstrasse station and discover a huge pedestrian shopping area that eventually connects with the Rathaus area. Lots of shopping, restaurants, casual eating places etc. For dinner I get a German sausage on a bun and enjoy the street musicians using their drum sticks on plastic buckets and plastic bottles. They were quite good and very entertaining.
It is getting later and time to head home. Back into the U3 Bahn and off at the usual station. I find a REWE grocery store open to get some bananas and blueberries for my breakfast, plus a bottle of water. I make it back to the apartment around 7:30 pm. I have been out for about 10 hours. Janke is home, but shortly heading out with friends. Time for me to upload all my pictures and update this blog. Close to 10:10 pm local time. I will FaceTime with Lana and hope to catch Renée and Georgia.
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